36 Hours in Malibu
By LOUISE TUTELIAN New York Times

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LOCALS call it “the Bu” — a laid-back, celebrity-filled beach town that sparkles in the collective consciousness as a sun-drenched state of mind. With the busy Pacific Coast Highway running through and no discernible center of town, some of the best of this small city, with around 13,000 residents, can disappear in a drive-by. The staggering natural beauty of the sea and mountains is obvious, but pull off the road and stay awhile, and you’ll find more: a world-class art museum, local wines, top-notch restaurants and chic shops.

Friday

5 p.m.
1) WATER, WATER EVERYWHERE

What’s so appealing about Malibu’s little slice of coast? Visit Point Dume State Preserve (Birdview Avenue and Cliffside Drive; 818-880-0363; www.parks.ca.gov), and you’ll see. A modest walk to the top of this coastal bluff rewards you with a sweeping view of the entire Santa Monica Bay, the inland Santa Monica Mountains and, on a clear day, Catalina Island. A boardwalk just below the summit leads to a platform for watching swooping pelicans and crashing waves. To feel the sand between your toes, drive down Birdview Avenue to Westward Beach Road and park at the very end of the lot on your left. You’ll be looking at Westward Beach, a gem that most visitors miss. Strike a yoga pose. Sigh at will.

7 p.m.
2) CHASING THE SUNSET

Little known fact: Most of Malibu faces south, not west. That means sitting down at just any seaside restaurant at dusk won’t guarantee seeing a sunset over the water. But the aptly named Sunset Restaurant (6800 Westward Beach Road; 310-589-1007; www.thesunsetrestaurant.com) is a sure bet, with just the right orientation. Claim a white leather banquette, order a $5 carafe of wine and select a tasting plate of cheeses (three for $10; five for $15), and settle in for the light show.

9 p.m.
3) SHORE DINNER

If you’re going to spot a celebrity, chances are it will be at Nobu Malibu (3835 Cross Creek Road, in the Malibu Country Mart; 310-317-9140; www.nobumatsuhisa.com), one of the famed chef Nobu Matsuhisa’s many restaurants. The sushi ($6 to $12 for a two-piece order) is sublime, and the pan-seared scallops with cilantro sauce ($16 for a two-piece portion) are a favorite. Dinner for two is about $100 without wine, and reservations are essential. The front room is convivial but noisy; the subtly lighted back room is quieter.

Saturday

9 a.m.
4) WALK THE PIER

The 780-foot long Malibu Pier (23000 Pacific Coast Highway; 888-310-7437; www.malibupiersportfishing.com) is the most recognizable (and, arguably, only) landmark in town. Take a morning stroll out to the end, chat with the fishermen and watch surfers paddle out. You’ll be walking on a piece of Malibu history. The pier was originally built in 1905 as a loading dock for construction material, and it was a lookout during World War II. It crops up in numerous movies and TV shows. But storms took their toll, and it closed for repairs in 1995, finally reopening last summer — to the relief of local residents.

10 a.m.
5) ANCIENT ART

The Getty Villa (17985 Pacific Coast Highway; 310-440-7300; www.getty.edu) is just over the city’s southern border in the Pacific Palisades neighborhood of Los Angeles, but no matter: it shouldn’t be missed. The museum, built by J. Paul Getty in the 1970s to resemble a first-century Roman country house, contains Greek, Roman and Etruscan vessels, gems and statuary, some dating back to 6,500 B.C. On the second floor is a rare life-size Greek bronze, “Statue of a Victorious Youth,” a prize of the museum. In the outside peristyle gardens, watch the sun glint off bronze statues at the 220-foot-long reflecting pool. Admission is free, but parking is limited, so car reservations ($10; $15 from July 1) are required.

1 p.m.
6) MAGIC CARPET TILE

Even many longtime Angelenos don’t know about the Adamson House (23200 Pacific Coast Highway; 310-456-8432; www.adamsonhouse.org). The 1930 Spanish Colonial Revival residence is a showplace of exquisite ceramic tile from Malibu Potteries, which closed in 1932. Overlooking Surfrider Beach with a view of Malibu Pier, the house belonged to a member of the Rindge family, last owners of the Malibu Spanish land grant. Take a tour and watch for the Persian “carpet” constructed entirely from intricately patterned pieces of tile. Other highlights: a stunning star-shaped fountain and a bathroom tiled top to bottom in an ocean pattern, with ceramic galleons poised in perpetuity on pointy whitecaps in a sea of blue.

4 p.m.
7) VINO WITH A VIEW

The drive to Malibu Wines (31800 Mulholland Highway; 818-865-0605; www.malibuwine.com) along the serpentine roads of the Santa Monica Mountains is almost as much fun as tipping a glass once you get there. Set on a serene green lawn, the tasting room is really a stone and wood counter under striped awnings. Sidle up and choose a flight of four styles for $9 or $12. Or buy a bottle (prices start at $14) and lounge in one of the Adirondack chairs pulled up to tables made from barrels. (Tip: Regulars request the horseshoes or bocce ball set at the counter.) And don’t miss the collection of vintage pickup trucks spread around the property.

7 p.m.
8) FARM TO TABLE

Terra (21337 Pacific Coast Highway; 310-456-1221; www.terrarestaurantla.com), in the building that was once the original Malibu jail, is an intimate gathering place serving organic meats and nonfarmed fish, with most produce grown in its own gardens. Start with oven-roasted organic baby beets ($13) and consider the pounded filet mignon with roasted tomato, broccolini and Terra Farms arugula ($32). Dinner runs about $65 for two, without wine. In warm weather, French doors open to a spacious patio decorated with thousands of fragments of broken Malibu Potteries tile, the better to ward off evil spirits.

Sunday

10 a.m.
9) CATCH A WAVE

Surf shops offering lessons and board rentals line the Pacific Coast Highway (P.C.H. in local lingo), but Kai Sanson of Zuma Surf and Swim Training (949-742-1086; www.zsstraining.com) takes his fun seriously. Mr. Sanson, 35, a Malibu native, was named L.A.’s best surf instructor last year by L.A. Weekly. He’ll size you up with a glance and gear the instruction to your skills. Lessons for two are $80 a person. His tales of growing up in Malibu are free. Locals also give Malibu Makos Surf Club (310-317-1229; www.malibumakos.com) and Jeff White of Captain Kahuna’s Wave Travel Adventures (310-863-3802) high marks.

Noon
10) BRUNCH IN STYLE (OR NOT)

Put on your oversize sunglasses if you’re going to Geoffrey’s Malibu (27400 Pacific Coast Highway; 310-457-1519; www.geoffreysmalibu.com). Geoffrey’s (pronounced Joffreys) is the hot meeting spot for the well-heeled with a hankering for a shiitake mushroom omelet ($18) or lobster Cobb salad ($32). Its Richard Neutra-designed building overlooks the Pacific, and every table has an ocean view. Or if you just want to kick back with The Malibu Times, head to Coogie’s Beach Café (23750 Pacific Coast Highway in the Malibu Colony Plaza; 310-317-1444; menu at www.coogies.malibu.menuclub.com) and carbo-load with Coogie’s French Toast: bagels dipped in egg whites with cinnamon sugar and served with peanut butter and bananas ($10.50)

2 p.m.
11) SHOP LIKE A STAR

Whether it’s diamonds or designer jeans you’re after, the open-air Malibu Country Mart (3835 Cross Creek Road; www.malibucountrymart.com) is the place to cruise for them. Its more than 50 retail stores and restaurants include Ralph Lauren, Juicy Couture and Malibu Rock Star jewelry. In an adjacent space, the new luxe Malibu Lumber Yard shopping complex, with stores like J. Crew, Alice + Olivia, and Tory Burch, opened in April.

THE BASICS

Malibu, a 21-mile-long strip of a city, hugs the Pacific coastline northwest of Los Angeles and extends a couple of miles up into the Santa Monica Mountains. It is approximately 25 miles or a 45-minute drive (with minimal traffic) from Los Angeles International Airport. A car is essential.

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http://www.nytimes.com/slideshow/2009/06/21/travel/20090621-malibu-slide-show_index.html

[ 06-24-2009: Message edited by: lasuvidaboy ]

Later, after we met we still went to Malibu often especially if we were visiting his family in Calabasas. We used to love bringing our dog Gaby to the Malibu Country Mart for a light lunch then let her run on the beach in front of the Colony. One time she was almost swept away by a wave when she was chasing birds. She was just a little miniature daschund so some of the birds were taller than she was! I sure do miss Gaby (she passed last year at 18 years old) and Malibu.

As lasuvidaboy pointed out, LA is really a paradox. One minute you are in an urban city environment, and 30 minutes later you can be sitting on a beautiful deserted beach or hiking in the mountains. It's pretty amazing and one of many things I really miss about living in LA. My parter may be transfered to the new W Hotel in Hollywood so LA may be in our future. He is very much ready to move "home".

Ernie

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Originally posted by eroller:
My parter may be transfered to the new W Hotel in Hollywood so LA may be in our future. He is very much ready to move "home".

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Originally posted by lasuvidaboy:

I am always amazed when someoen says 'I hate L.A.' and I usually ask what part they hate?

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I feel the same way. Sometimes I ask what they do like about Southern California, and they might say Marina del Rey, Venice, Pacific Palisades, Hollywood, Homby Hills, Century City, Westwood, Brentwood, Bel Air, Hancock Park, Will Rogers Beach, etc. etc.

I reply, guess what? All those places you mention are actually neighborhoods, not cities, and a part of the City of Los Angeles. Then you have Santa Monica, Malibu, West Hollywood, Beverly Hills, etc. which are their own cities, but a part of LA County and completely surrounded by LA city proper, so essentially they all blend together. Most people would never even realize when they have left the City of Los Angeles and entered Beverly Hills, Santa Monica, or West Hollywood.

As you say, it's an incredibly diverse place. I would have no problem moving back.

Ernie

[ 06-27-2009: Message edited by: eroller ]

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Originally posted by eroller:

I feel the same way. Sometimes I ask what they do like about Southern California, and they might say Marina del Rey, Venice, Pacific Palisades, Hollywood, Homby Hills, Century City, Westwood, Brentwood, Bel Air, Hancock Park, Will Rogers Beach, etc. etc.

[ 06-27-2009: Message edited by: eroller ]

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My favorite LA nieghborhoods are
*Seal Beach
*Laguna Beach
*Redondo Beach
*Santa Monica
*WeHo
*Pasadena

The movie: Its a Mad, Mad, Mad World of 1963 is filmed in the greater LA area. The spin out scene is filmed in Malibu. It is far more built up now.

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Originally posted by desirod7:

My favorite LA nieghborhoods are
*Seal Beach
*Laguna Beach
*Redondo Beach
*Santa Monica
*WeHo
*Pasadena

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All great places, but none are actually part of LA City proper. They are all their own little cities. All but Laguna & Seal Beach are in LA County. They are behind the Orange Curtain.