I visited in 1988 and 2007 and immensely enjoyed both trips.
The climate is great year round. Although many hi rises, mature trees along the sidewalks in front of them give a human scale to the area. West End is my favorite nieghborhood.
Be sure to visit Stanley Park.
City has a large Asian influence and often called Hongcouver.
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) WATERFRONT REVIVALStart out in one of Vancouver's oldest districts: Gastown. Once the seedy home to drug addicts and prostitutes, the old waterfront neighborhood is now a restored district of cobblestone streets and antique gaslights. The changes have been accompanied by an influx of trendy restaurants, art galleries and specialty stores, including Livestock (239 Abbot Street, 604-685-1433; www.deadstock.ca), a sneaker shop that carries limited-edition Nikes and Adidases, and Button Button (422 West Cordova Street, 604-687-0067), which sells nothing but buttons — more than a million at last count
) STRICTLY BALLROOM
Vancouver's nightclubs are rather generic, the kind of clamorous, multilevel mega-clubs you find in most major cities. You're better off scanning the concert schedule at the 75-year-old Commodore Ballroom (868 Granville Street, 604-739-7469; www.hob.com/venues/concerts/commodore/). It offers a crystalline sound system, excellent sight lines and an impressive roster of live acts that have included Tortoise, Polyphonic Spree and the Deftones. Shows this month include Dolores O'Riordan and Femi Kuti. It's downtown, near major hotels, so it's easy enough to stumble back to your room.
)BACK TO NATURE
Amid the glittering skyscrapers and Victorian mansions, it's easy to forget that this area was originally a temperate rain forest on the Strait of Georgia. Go back to nature at Stanley Park, one of North America's largest urban parks (www.city.vancouver.bc.ca/parks/parks/stanley). The park offers 1,000 gorgeous acres of flower gardens and majestic cedar, hemlock and fir trees. A six-mile bike path rings the park.
) FOR ART'S SAKE
Vancouver isn't known for its art scene, but it does have one terrific gallery that's more like a museum. Located in the heart of the overcrowded and touristy Robson Street shopping district, the Vancouver Art Gallery (750 Hornby Street, 604-662-4700; www.vanartgallery.bc.ca) has a large collection of British Columbian artists, including a few super-sized photographs from its native son the photographer Jeff Wall. The collection, which is housed in a former neo-Classical courthouse, also includes old British masters and provocative contemporary artists. Current exhibits include a retrospective on the Chinese artist Huang Yong Ping (through Sept. 16); and the work of the Canadian artist Emily Carr and the so-called Group of Seven (though April 2008).
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) POSITIVELY FOURTH AVENUE
In a city with no shortage of charming enclaves, West Fourth Avenue in Kitsilano may be the most whimsical shopping neighborhood in town. Start at Moule. A few doors down is Ironhead ,a tiny storefront that sells casual wear emblazoned with the company's graphics, which change weekly. Grab a sweatshirt while you can; they aren't sold online or anywhere else.
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) SPAGO, UP NORTH
Vancouver has emerged as a film and TV production center, churning out shows like the Sci Fi Channel's “Battlestar Galactica.” Rub elbows with the Hollywood exiles at Bin 941 (941 Davie Street, 604-683-1246; www.bin941.com), a tapas bar that looks like it was designed by Gaudí on a wine bender. Get there by 9 p.m. before the lively, fashionable crowds arrive and turn this place into a late night party. Start with a glass of bingria (sangria with apricot brandy, 8 Canadian dollars), then sample the crab cakes with burnt orange chipotle sauce (15 Canadian dollars), mussels with coconut milk and garam masala (13 Canadian dollars), and beef satay with a Thai chili glaze (11 Canadian dollars).
) LOST IN THE MARKET
To catch Vancouver's laid-back vibe, hop on a water taxi to Granville Island (604-666-5784; www.granvilleisland.com). From the mainland, take the Aquabus (1333 Johnston Street, 604-689-5858; www.theaquabus.com), 2.50 Canadian dollars each way across False Creek, and walk to the bustling market, where a stunning variety of independent vendors sell wild-berry jelly, homemade mango yogurt, grass-fed bison and much more. It's easy to get lost in the labyrinth.
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) DOWNTOWN BEACH
Vancouver flocks to the water during the summer, when boaters fill the Strait of Georgia like so many water moccasins. There are a number of ways to enjoy the water views, but a less crowded alternative is Jericho Beach (3941 Point Grey Road), a barren stretch of sand in downtown Vancouver. Lean against the many logs that are strewn across the beach and let the lapping waves lull you into a power nap. Pack a picnic; chances are you'll have plenty of room to spread out your blanket.
VISITOR INFORMATION
Many major airlines in the United States serve Vancouver International Airport. A recent Web search showed round-trip fares from Kennedy Airport to Vancouver starting at $492. A taxi into downtown Vancouver is about 25 Canadian dollars, or about $23 at 1.08 Canadian dollars to the U.S. dollar. You can also take an express bus from YVR Airporter (604-946-8866; www.yvrairporter.com) for 13.50 Canadian dollars. Vancouver is a great walking town. For longer distances, the city's mass transit system, Translink (www.translink.bc.ca), offers a network of buses, light rail, water taxis and sea buses.